Changing your own oil is one of the most rewarding and cost-effective car maintenance tasks you can do. Not only will you save money, but you’ll also gain a better understanding of your vehicle. This step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, answer common questions, and help you avoid common mistakes.
How to change oil in your car
What you'll need;
Tools:
- Floor jack
- Jack stands (never work under a car on just a jack)
- Drain pan, correct size socket or wrench for your drain plug
- Oil filter wrench (you'll need it eventually, buy one before you need it)
- Funnel
- Rags or shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
Materials:
- Fresh oil in the correct grade and quantity for your engine (check your Haynes manual, don't guess)
- New oil filter
- Replacement copper washer for the drain plug
Time: 30–45 minutes.
Cost saving vs. a quick lube: Typically $40–$80 depending on your vehicle.
Safety First
Important:
- Always use jack stands or ramps, never work under a car supported only by a jack
- Work on a level surface and use wheel chocks to prevent rolling
- Wear gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes from hot oil and debris
The fundamental task of changing oil is the same for all modern cars, with slight variations, so the following information should be used as an overview rather than a detailed guide, check out your Haynes Manual for instructions specific to your vehicle. And remember, always wear protective gloves as used engine oil is potentially carcinogenic.
Step 1: Warm the engine briefly
To ensure you can drain as much oil as possible start the car to warm the engine before you begin work. You don't want to get it up to full working temperature as the oil, and engine, will become too hot, but just until the temperature gauge starts to move. You can add an 'engine flush' at this stage if you wish.
Step 2: Get the car safely in the air
On firm level ground jack up the car and secure it on axle stands. You will need to work underneath the car, so it's vital that it is secure and safe. Open the hood, and remove the oil filler cap – this will help the oil drain more quickly.
Step 3: Remove any undertrays
Many cars have a large plastic undertrays or skid plates. You may need to remove this to access the drain plug, although some cars have a 'flap' or smaller removable section. Check the Haynes Manual if you're unsure.
Step 4: Locate and remove the drain plug
Locate the oil drain plug (the sump). You need to make sure you've got the right plug before you undo it, don’t confuse it with a gearbox drain plug, or anything else. Again, check the Haynes or Chilton manual if you're unsure. Place a suitably sized drain container underneath the drain plug – be aware that the oil will probably pour out with some force so get ready to move the container to catch the oil unless you want to get it everywhere!
Undo the drain plug with a suitable sized spanner or ratchet. It might be quite tight. Make sure the pug doesn't fall into the oil container, and that you don’t lose the copper washer.
Step 5: Deal with the oil filter
While the oil is draining from the car locate the oil filter. Sometimes they're accessible from underneath the car, and on some cars you're best going from above through the engine bay.
Oil filters are generally either screw-on metal canisters, or are paper elements that fit in a housing. Removal is a case of unscrewing either the canister, or removing the 'lid' of the filter housing. Oil will also come out of the filter, so be prepared to catch any that comes out.
Step 6: Refit the drain plug first
When you're satisfied you've drained as much oil from the car as you can replace the drain plug – do this first so you don't forget! It's always wise to replace the copper washer, and if the drain plug shows any sign of wear (maybe from overzealous tightening) replace it too.
Step 7: Fit the new filter
Next refit the oil filter. If it's the canister type clean the area where it mates to the engine and smear some oil around the black rubber seal. Tighten firmly by hand - DO NOT over-tighten. If it's the element type, refit the new element and secure the housing lid. It's likely to be a plastic housing so again, don’t over-tighten.
Step 8: Add the fresh oil
Don't refit the undertray (if fitted) just yet. With a funnel (you WILL spill oil everywhere otherwise) refill with the correct grade oil through the filler neck. Ensure you know the oil capacity of your engine and check the dipstick regularly to make sure you don’t overfill. It's much easier to add more oil than it is to remove excess oil!
Step 9: Start the engine and check for leaks
Once you're happy that the oil is at the 'full' level on the dipstick, the filter is firmly on, the drain plug is refitted, and the oil filler cap is back on and tight start the engine.
Don’t rev the engine, as it you will need to build oil pressure – which is why the oil pressure light will stay on for longer than usual. It should extinguish within a few seconds. Leave the engine running and check the filter and drain plug for leaks. If there are tighten further until there are no more drips – don't stick your hand in the engine bay with the engine running unless you're well clear of pulleys, belts and the fan! Refit the undertray. Allow the engine to cool a little, and the oil to settle, and check the level again.
How to remove a stuck oil filter
It's not uncommon to come across a screw-on canister-style oil filter that won’t budge. The previous owner may have got a bit carried away and done it up too tightly.
The first step is to get a pair of rubber gloves (for grip) summon up all your strength and give it a good turn (anti-clockwise obviously!).
If it's not budging you've got a couple of options. You can either remove it the destructive way, or the non-destructive way, depending on how desperate you are.
One way is to drive a big screwdriver through the side of the canister, and use that to hopefully add leverage. It will make oil come out and go everywhere, and if it's really stuck, you'll simply rip the canister and be left with jagged metal and an oil filter that's unusable.
The more sensible option is to get an oil filter wrench. These are generally rubber or metal and grip the canister sides giving you extra leverage without damaging the housing. It's one of those tools that you should always buy before you need it!
Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting
Stuck oil filter?
Use an oil filter wrench for extra leverage.
Stripped drain plug?
Replace it before refilling with new oil.
Oil pressure light stays on?
Double-check oil level and filter installation.
How often should you change your oil?
There is much debate about how often to change your oil with some people rather overzealously doing it every 3,000 miles (which used to be the case).
Modern oils are capable of working effectively for a longer duration and most manufacturers tend to recommend intervals of between 7,500 and 10,000, with some even recommending 15,000 mile intervals.
The best bet is to never exceed the manufacturer's recommendations particularly if you do a lot of short journeys.
How often should you replace the oil filter?
Quite simply, you should replace your oil filter every time you change your oil!
What happens if I overfill my engine oil?
Too much oil creates excess pressure in the crankcase, which can push oil past seals and into places it shouldn't be, including the intake system. Check your dipstick carefully as you top up and stop at the full mark.
How should I dispose of used oil and oil filters?
Take used oil and filters to a local recycling center or auto parts store that accepts them. Never pour oil down the drain, on the ground, or in the trash.
Why is proper disposal important?
Used oil is hazardous and can pollute soil and water. Recycling protects the environment and is required by law in most areas.
How long does a home oil change take?
Once you've done it a couple of times, 30–40 minutes is realistic. The first time, give yourself an hour.
What oil grade does my car take?
It's in your Haynes Manual, usually something like 5W-30 or 0W-20. Don't rely on the label on the old filter or the last workshop invoice. Manufacturers sometimes update their recommendations, and the manual is always the correct reference.
Where is the filler cap and why is it important?
The filler cap is usually located on top of your engine and is labeled “oil” or marked with an oil can symbol. You remove the filler cap to add new oil during an oil change.
Do I need to use an oil additive or oil stabilizer when changing my oil?
Most modern engine oils are already formulated with the necessary additives for protection and performance. Additional oil additives or oil stabilizers are generally not required unless recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer.
Changing your own oil is simple with the right tools and a little preparation. Not only will your engine thank you, but you’ll also gain confidence in maintaining your car.
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